Water Heater Installation · Liberty Hill, TX

Water Heater Installation, Sized For Your House & Installed To Code

Tank, tankless, or heat pump - we install all three. Most of an installer's job is the decision before installation: tank or tankless, gas or electric, what size, what brand, what code requirements apply in Williamson and Burnet counties. Get that right and the install is the easy part. We don't rush that conversation.

1-day
Most Installs Complete
3types
Tank, Tankless, Heat Pump
6+
Brands Available
Permit
Pulled & Inspected
The Big Decision

Tank, Tankless, or Heat Pump - Which One Is Right?

Three honest options. Each one is better than the others in specific situations. The right water heater installation starts with picking the right type for your house, your fuel, and how you actually use hot water.

Type 2

Gas Tankless

On-demand, condensing or non-condensing
Lifespan
20+ yr
Install
Complex

Endless hot water, half the lifespan-cost, frees up closet space. The asterisk is the upfront install cost - gas line may need upsizing, venting is different, and electrical and condensate drainage are added scope.

  • Endless hot water (sized right)
  • Lasts twice as long as a tank
  • Frees up closet or garage floor space
  • Lower lifetime energy cost
  • Higher install cost up front
  • Gas line may need to be upsized
  • "Cold-water sandwich" on some models
Best fit Larger families. Homes that have run out of hot water mid-shower more than once. Long-term owners who plan to stay 10+ years.
Type 3

Heat Pump (Hybrid)

Electric, with backup elements
Lifespan
13-15 yr
Install
Moderate

The efficiency play. A heat pump water heater pulls heat from ambient air rather than generating it, running 2-4× more efficient than electric resistance. Federal tax credits in 2026 make the math compelling for the right house.

  • 2-4x more efficient than standard electric
  • Qualifies for federal tax credits
  • Lowest annual operating cost
  • Best fit for all-electric homes
  • Needs garage or large utility space
  • Slight ambient cooling/dehumidifying
  • Slower recovery than gas tankless
Best fit All-electric homes, garages with room to breathe, owners chasing the lowest operating cost. Not for tight closet installs.
Sizing It Right

A Water Heater Sized For Two People Won't Work For Six

Undersizing is the #1 install mistake in residential water heating. Bigger isn't always better either - oversized tanks waste energy heating water you don't use. Here's the rough sizing breakdown we work from.

Tank Sizing By Household

Tank capacity isn't the only number that matters. First-hour rating (FHR) measures how much hot water a tank can deliver in its busiest hour - the morning rush when everyone showers. For most homes the FHR is more useful than the gallons number alone.

For tankless we size differently - by flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM), factoring in your incoming ground water temperature. Central Texas ground water runs 65-70°F, which makes the math easier than colder climates: a 35-40° temperature rise to 120°F is well within what a quality 199,000 BTU tankless can deliver at full whole-home flow.

A 3-bathroom home running two simultaneous showers needs about 5-6 GPM of tankless capacity. A 4-bathroom home with potential 3 simultaneous fixtures needs 8-9 GPM. We size based on your actual fixtures, not a sticker.

PeopleTank SizeTankless GPM
1-2
30-40 gal | FHR 50-60
5-6 GPM
2-3
40-50 gal | FHR 60-70
6-7 GPM
3-4
50-60 gal | FHR 70-80
7-8 GPM
4-5
60-75 gal | FHR 80-90
8-9 GPM
5-6
75-80 gal | FHR 90+
9-11 GPM
6+
80 gal or dual-tank
11+ GPM or dual
What To Expect

What An Honest Install Day Looks Like

Most water heater installations are a single-day job. Here's the actual sequence of what happens from the time we arrive to the time we leave - so there are no surprises and you know exactly what you're paying for.

8 AMArrival
Arrival, walkthrough, and shutdown

We confirm the install location, the new unit specs, and walk the path the old unit is leaving and the new one is coming in. Gas and water get shut off, electrical breakers are pulled on electric units, and the old tank is drained.

9 AMRemoval
Old unit removed

Existing water heater disconnected, drained completely, and removed from the premises. We take it with us for proper recycling and disposal - you're not stuck with it at the curb.

10 AMPrep & Code
Pan, expansion tank, code updates

Drip pan installed if code requires (it usually does on second-story or interior installs). Thermal expansion tank checked and replaced if needed. Existing T&P relief discharge pipe verified or rebuilt to code. Earthquake/seismic strapping where required.

11 AMSet & Connect
New unit set, water connected

New water heater placed, leveled, and water lines connected with new flex connectors (not reused). Shutoff valves replaced if existing ones are old or sticky. Dielectric unions used where required to prevent galvanic corrosion.

12 PMGas/Electric
Fuel connection & venting

For gas: black iron pipe to manufacturer spec, sediment trap, gas line leak-tested with manometer. For electric: dedicated breaker verified, conduit and wire to code. Venting cleaned, inspected, or replaced - the most-skipped step on cheap installs and the single biggest CO safety risk.

1 PMFill & Start
Tank filled, system pressurized, startup

Tank filled while bleeding air through a hot fixture upstairs. Final pressure test on water and gas. Pilot lit (if gas) or breaker on (if electric). Initial temperature setpoint to 120°F.

2 PMVerify & Inspect
Combustion analysis, leak check, walkthrough

On gas units: combustion analysis with calibrated meter, CO check at the supply registers. Visual leak check on every joint we touched, plus the joints we didn't. Walk you through the new unit's operation, warranty docs, and what to do if anything seems off.

3 PMPermit
Permit filed, inspection coordinated

For installs requiring a mechanical permit (most do in Williamson and Burnet counties), we file the paperwork and coordinate with the inspector. You don't deal with the city - we do.

Brands We Install

Real Brands, Not Generic Boxes

We install factory-supported brands - which means parts are available, warranties are honored, and we can service it years from now without playing parts-lookup roulette.

Rheem A.O. Smith Bradford White Rinnai Navien Noritz State American

We don't push the brand with the best dealer rebate. We recommend the right unit for your house, your fuel, and your budget. If you have a brand preference for warranty or familiarity reasons, we'll work with it.

Water Heater Installation Q&A

Common Questions, Plain Answers

Do I need a permit to replace a water heater in Williamson County?
Yes, almost always. Water heater replacement is a mechanical permit in Liberty Hill, Georgetown, Cedar Park, Leander, and unincorporated Williamson County - and most surrounding municipalities. The permit covers the install passing code on venting, T&P discharge, pan and drain, gas connections, and seismic strapping where required. We pull the permit, schedule the inspection, and handle the paperwork. Skipping the permit is a common shortcut that bites homeowners later when selling, when an insurance claim runs into "unpermitted work" exclusions, or when an inspector spots it during another job.
How long does a typical water heater installation take?
Most direct replacements (same fuel, same type, same location) are 4-6 hours start to finish. Conversions take longer - a tank-to-tankless install adds 2-4 hours for the gas line and venting changes, and may require electrical work. Heat pump installs typically take 5-8 hours because of the larger physical unit and electrical considerations. Most jobs we start in the morning are wrapped by mid-afternoon.
Will my gas line need to be upsized for a tankless?
Often yes. A standard 40-50 gallon gas tank runs on a 1/2-inch gas line. A whole-home tankless typically needs 3/4-inch or larger - it draws far more gas at a time, just for shorter bursts. We check the gas line sizing during the quote, not after we've started. If it needs upsizing, that's part of the quote. If it doesn't, we don't charge you for it. Tank-to-tankless conversions also often need a new vent system since the venting requirements are different.
What about the electrical for a heat pump water heater?
Heat pump units use a standard 240V circuit, just like an electric tank - so for most existing electric installs, the panel and breaker are already there. What sometimes needs upgrading: older homes with marginal panel capacity may need a panel evaluation, and units that include a desuperheater (rare in residential) need additional wiring. We check the electrical situation during the quote.
Do you take the old water heater away?
Yes. Old unit removal and proper disposal is included in every water heater installation we do. We haul it to a recycler that handles the metal and any remaining refrigerant (heat pump units) properly. You're not stuck with a 200-pound tank at the curb hoping the garbage company will take it. That's part of the quote, not an extra.
What's a thermal expansion tank and do I need one?
When water heats up it expands. In a closed plumbing system (which most modern homes are, with a check valve at the meter), that expanded water has nowhere to go - so pressure builds in the tank until the T&P relief valve dumps it, or worse, until something fails. A thermal expansion tank gives the expansion somewhere to go safely. It's required by code on most modern installs and it adds maybe $150-200 to the install. If your house has one already we'll inspect it (they fail in 5-10 years); if not, we'll install one.
Are heat pump water heater federal tax credits still available in 2026?
As of this writing, yes - heat pump water heaters qualify for federal tax credits under the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit, which currently covers 30% of installed cost up to $2,000 per year for heat pump water heaters specifically. This is the IRS Form 5695 credit, and the eligibility specs change periodically, so we'll give you the model's current CEE/ENERGY STAR documentation at install for your records. We can't give tax advice - your tax preparer is the right person to confirm what applies to your situation - but we can give you everything you need to claim it if eligible.
How long does a new water heater actually last in Central Texas?
In our area, with our water quality, realistic expectations are: traditional tank water heaters - 10-12 years, sometimes 8-9 if water is hard and the anode rod hasn't been changed. Tankless water heaters - 20+ years with annual descaling. Heat pump water heaters - 13-15 years. Central Texas water has enough minerals to matter, and that's why annual maintenance (especially flushing) extends life significantly. We include a maintenance reminder in your install paperwork.
Real Google Reviews

What Customers Say

Verified 5-star Google reviews from real Texas Legacy Services customers.

★★★★★

"Peter and his team were great at repairing my AC unit. Very good and professional."

Meva B.Google Review
★★★★★

"Great customer service, very helpful and knowledgeable. Highly recommend and will be calling for all my future AC needs."

Kelsey K.Google Review
★★★★★

"Peter took the time to actually listen to what my situation was, then instead of taking my money by scheduling a service, he walked me through what I had to do to fix the problem on my own. He took almost 30 mins out of his time to not only talk to me but review photos I was texting him, troubleshooting with me in real time. They earned my future business for sure."

Robert K.Google Review · Local Guide

Ready to Replace
Your Water Heater?

Free in-home estimate. We'll look at your existing setup, talk through tank vs tankless vs heat pump, and give you a real quote - permits, removal, and everything included.